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Ibex
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Avg: 3 from 1
vote
Routes in Lagazuoi Grande
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Ardizzon T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Del Tetto T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Giordano T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Ibex T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Orizzonti di Gloria T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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South-West Face "Via del Buco" T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Via Vonbank T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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West Face of Piccolo Lagazuoi "Via M. Speziale" T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 1500 ft (455 m), 10 pitches |
| GPS: | 46.53517, 11.99772 |
| FA: | S. Cannarella, GP Rosada, L. Albertacci and L. Coceani - June 15, 2003 |
| Page Views: | 231 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | JJ Furman on Sep 18, 2023 |
| Admins: | Tim Wolfe, Shawn Heath |
Description
Ibex has above average rock quality and protection compared to many Dolomites routes. The climbing is pretty consistent and sustained for 9 pitches, then degrades into detrital litter for about a pitch. Most anchors have just 1 bolt, or a bolt and a piton. The anchor bolts can be identified by their extra flair. The climb tops out on the Lagazoi ridge with lovely views all around, and a short walk to the beer garden. A lift is waiting for you if you don't want to walk down 1500'.
Location
Park at or before Forte Tre Sassi Museum. Walk east on a good trail curving slightly south, eventually hoofing up to the base of the climb on a loose scree field. 30+ minutes.
Protection
We brought 6 quickdraws and 4 alpine draws + a single rack. You don't really need a rack, but some double slings would be useful in case you don't trust existing in situ slung hourglasses. There were no rap rings on the route so bring your own if you might need it. Consider bringing cord to replace rotted findings.
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