Tropical Dance

The second route on Palm Springs ascends the slabs on the West side of the buttress, over a small roof, then to a slab that traverses left under a series of stacked roofs on incredible rock for Glacier. Both the 5.9 and 5.10a cruxes of this route protect well with the option to place 3-4 pieces leading into each crux to protect them giving confidence to climb through the hardest moves.

Tropical Dance is alpine in it's nature. Despite some amazing rock, it has its share of loose rock, especially on belay ledges. Climb with caution and don't kick rocks on your follower.

If you needed to bail by rappelling the route, you will be leaving behind a lot of gear due to little available natural anchors on Tropical Dance. A half/twin setup or bringing a pull cord is recommended. For the FA we had twin 60m ropes.

Pitch One: 5.7, 45m

Start on the west side of the buttress on top of the three grassy ledges stacked on top of one another and underneath the largest triangular roof. The route starts at a shallow left facing corner.

Climb up through the initial corner, then up to a  short right facing corner then follow a series of cracks up to a block that has a finger crack in it(actually a detached block). Belay in corner to right of the block.

Pitch 2: 5.9, 40m

Climb straight up off the belay over blocky terrain into a lower angle trough. Climb through the trough then traverse right to a left facing corner below a small roof. Place a piece high in the corner, make an airy step, then slab your way to the ledge below the stacked roofs. Save some small cams for the belay.

Note the belay ledge atop P2 has a lot of loose rock on it, be careful not to kick any down on your follower. We removed a lot of the big chunks, but step with caution.

Pitch 3: 5.10a, 15m

Traverse left from the belay under the roofs then up the left facing crux corner on small feet. Pull up through the top of the steep corner on good holds and continue up the dirt to belay off a tree.

Descent: From the top of the route, scramble straight up until near the top of the buttress and you can see a series of ledges that extend left. Follow these ledges and cross the creek(dries up in fall) then down the ledges to the talus that is covered by snow early season. An ice axe and crampons may be necessary early season. Continue down the talus to the Gunsight Pass Trail. 

Take the Gunsight Pass Trail to Lake Ellen Wilson. The Palm Springs Buttress is the central buttress above the trail and second you encounter coming from the west. Stacked roofs high on the face are a giveaway.

Start on the west side of the buttress atop three grassy ledges you gain access to from the climber's left. Traverse the top grassy ledge until below the triangular roofs. Start at the shallow left facing corner.

Single nuts, doubles .2-3, 8 single length slings and 4 double length slings.

Nut tool needed for cleaning out placements.