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Dungeon Dweller - LG
5.10a,
Trad, 65 ft (20 m),
Avg: 2 from 1
vote
FA: unknown
Pennsylvania
> S Central PA
> Susquehanna Riv…
> 8. Castellan
Access Issue: Previously Private Land. Recently transitioned to a PA State Park. Climbing is not yet permitted.
Details
SCPC is trying to work with DCNR to ensure climbing is approved as an activity in this new park. Climbers have been visiting this crag for decades and are currently still climbing on the cliff. If you choose go, keep a low profile, respect the land, leave no trace, be kind to other user groups, be cautious about loose rock, and DO NOT install any fixed anchors at the cliff. SCPC will be installing rappel anchors as the plan progresses. Remove all webbing or cord when you leave. Thank you!
Description
Start on an undercling in the little alcove on the right side of the rock. Shift a foot and reach for a hold above the lip. Power through some jugs and then up a mellow arete. Toping out on Tower Sage's tower or scamper across the gully to use Big Mama's belay trees. Crux is the boulder problem at the start.
Using a sit start and staying to the face would be a nice project. Face needs some cleaning.
Location
Start on an undercling in the little alcove on the right side of the rock. Look for the cave-like feature.
If accessing from the bottom trail that takes you to the main overlook, the Castellon offshoot will take you right to it.
Protection
Standard rack