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Strung Out on Laser Beams
5.11c,
Sport, 110 ft (33 m),
Avg: 2.7 from 3
votes
FA: Sam Bendroth 2010
Maine
> a. Western Moun…
> Shell Pond
> High Meadow Wall
Access Issue: BOTH the trails and the cliffs are on private property. Please "go lightly" and read the details.
Details
The Deer Hill Rd approach is a shorter and more secluded access to the cliffs but has winter closure. The Stone House Rd approach brings you VERY close and obvious to the owners house.
It's surrounded by W.M.N.F but the Shell Pond Crags are located on private property subject to a conservation easement held by Greater Lovell Land Trust. The owners and easement holders of the property have been gracious enough to allow climbing to occur on their land, but access is not guaranteed in the future. If you show up and there are numerous cars in the parking lot consider climbing at other nearby Evan’s Notch locations
Access Issue: Peregrine Falcons in Maine
Details
Maine Peregrine Falcons breeding season extends from mid-March through July or August. Hiking or climbing near nesting peregrines can cause abandonment and death of eggs/young. If adults are away from the nest, eggs or young can become overheated, chilled, or chicks can miss feedings. Be on the lookout for agitated falcons that may vocalize, take avoidance flights, or dive-bomb those that are too close. If you encounter an aggressive peregrine falcon please immediately leave the area, and report incidents to Erynn Call, State Raptor Specialist, MDIFW, erynn.call@maine.gov.
To learn more about peregrines in Maine, check out this link:
maine.gov/ifw/fish-wildlife…
Description
For a sport route at a well developed crag, this one feels pretty adventurous. I found it to climb almost like a trad climb, or one of those really out there routes at Rumney Summit Cliff. Unlike a lot of Shell Pond routes, you’ll find this one to be very “on your feet” for a lot of it.
Stick clip the first bolt. Make bouldery moves on white rock with smeary feet and long reaches between crimps. The climbing eases a fair bit after the second bolt, following ledgy terrain to a puzzling, improbable looking white wall. Move left to some slopers, and make a tricky mantel, then move back right to more moderate ground and another rest. Climb up and left of a roof. Patience and good balance will pay off as you skirt the roof on the left side, then traverse back right above it to a final no hands rest. Get it all back here before the final crux, a pumpy traverse out left on good holds, then a challenging sequence to get established above the roof. Sink your fingers in a glorious finish flake and head to the chains.
Location
Up and right of Senior Project at a steep, white buttress.
Protection
12 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor with mussy hooks.
[Hide Photo] The start of Strung Out on Laser Beams
[Hide Photo] Looking down from the anchor of Strung Out on Laser Beams