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Strung Out on Laser Beams

5.11c, Sport, 110 ft (33 m),  Avg: 2.7 from 3 votes
FA: Sam Bendroth 2010
Maine > a. Western Moun… > Shell Pond > High Meadow Wall
Warning Access Issue: BOTH the trails and the cliffs are on private property. Please "go lightly" and read the details. DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: Peregrine Falcons in Maine DetailsDrop down

Description

For a sport route at a well developed crag, this one feels pretty adventurous. I found it to climb almost like a trad climb, or one of those really out there routes at Rumney Summit Cliff. Unlike a lot of Shell Pond routes, you’ll find this one to be very “on your feet” for a lot of it. 

Stick clip the first bolt. Make bouldery moves on white rock with smeary feet and long reaches between crimps. The climbing eases a fair bit after the second bolt, following ledgy terrain to a puzzling, improbable looking white wall. Move left to some slopers, and make a tricky mantel, then move back right to more moderate ground and another rest. Climb up and left of a roof. Patience and good balance will pay off as you skirt the roof on the left side, then traverse back right above it to a final no hands rest. Get it all back here before the final crux, a pumpy traverse out left on good holds, then a challenging sequence to get established above the roof. Sink your fingers in a glorious finish flake and head to the chains.

Location

Up and right of Senior Project at a steep, white buttress.

Protection

12 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor with mussy hooks.

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The start of Strung Out on Laser Beams
[Hide Photo] The start of Strung Out on Laser Beams
Looking down from the anchor of Strung Out on Laser Beams
[Hide Photo] Looking down from the anchor of Strung Out on Laser Beams