Type: Trad, 328 ft (99 m), 3 pitches
FA: Thorbjørn Enevold, Truls Seines
Page Views: 165 total · 8/month
Shared By: Andrew Leader on Aug 28, 2023 · Updates
Admins: Phil Lauffen, Michael Sullivan, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra

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Description Suggest change

Probably the most popular 5.10- route, and most popular route after the easier Gandalf. Good variety with a perfect #1 size hand crack crux (just wish it lasts longer!)

P1: 5.9, 40m, from the left, climb up toward the small tree in the crack, follow cracks above, climb straight through the overhang, and then stay near the right side of the blank slabby face (small nut can be placed on the right side), making one slabby move till reaching better holds. Then continue up easy terrain till reaching a decent ledge and build a gear anchor.

P2: 5.10a, 25m, climb the leaning right crack right of the belay, then up the vertical #1 hand crack (about 4 moves of jamming, pretty tough but just move through it). Belay on a smaller stance with another gear anchor.

P3: 5.10a, 35m, possibly the mental crux. Continue up and left on small finger cracks and face features. The first few moves are the toughest, and you can possibly find a nut but protection is a bit more sparse. The climbing quickly eases. Belay at the top with another gear anchor (no trees or blocks to sling).

Descent: ~10 min walk back. From the top, walk to the left, following a trail. Continue keeping elevation while it wraps around the right side for a couple minutes before dropping downhill, and then wrapping back around to the base.

Location Suggest change

Just right of Gandalf (the most popular route on the wall).

Protection Suggest change

Cams #0.3-3 with double 0.5-2 and nuts should be good for most 5.10 climbers. 60m rope (walk off).

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