Clube da Luta

A seldom-climbed route, but worth the trouble of cleaning the holds. It begins with a V7 boulder problem and finishes with another boulder problem (which I found easier for tall people); the center section is no joke as well.

Stick-clip the third bolt, as the first two old-style bolts seem to be worker bolts for the boulder problem.

Starting on the left, move up and right following the obvious holds, then go straight up on sidepulls (crux) to a stance below a steep wall. Good shake here. Go up and left to make a high clip, then step back down and go up and right on a steep headwall (12a) to where the angle changes. Another good rest here.

Go up another steep bulge to a good rest before a final overhanging prow of rock with a sharp-edged arete on the left. The bolts seem to indicate that you climb the sharp-edged arete, which I found impossible. Instead, I used the arete to make a high clip, then stepped back down, then climbed good (but well-spaced) incut crimps to some jugs, skipping the final bolt, to the anchor.

In the center of the cliff is a prow of steep rock with two routes about 10' apart; this is the left one. There are two older-style bolts, then a modern beefy bolt.

11 bolts; 2-bolt anchor.