Basque-French (Alpamayo Southwest Face)

This alternative route on the upper southwest face leading to the summit ridge is called the "Basque – French” route. It is used when the Ferrari or French-Direct route has too many seracs, hanging cornice, or the bergschrund is too wide, as is common since at least 2020.

The first three pitches are mostly snow and involve crossing over the two large crevasses formed by the bergschrund to the right. The rest of the pitches climb mostly ice with some rock encountered around pitches 5 or 6.

It is the flute several left from the Ferrari route.

The following information is for the whole mountain/face but until a page is created, it is provided here:

Be aware that there are many sources and topos for routes on this mountain with conflicting information. Some mix up the Ferrari and French Direct or name them the same route. Some sources:

• www.summitpost.org/face-with-3-popular-routes/2570/c-156382
• www.pinterest.com/pin/668925350894914531
• www.andeshandbook.org/montanismo/ruta/52/Ruta_Vas
• http://andesinfo.blogspot.com/2011/03/andes-peru-cordillera-blanca-nevado.html
• https://it.berglinapp.com/event-details/alpamayo-expedition

It is not clear whether Hauser's 1957 first ascent was via the south or north ridge. Here are some references:

• www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1967_files/AJ%201967%2018-28%20Amatt%20Alpamayo.pdf 
• www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_2005_files/AJ%202005%20340-342%20Cord%20Blanca.pdf 
• https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12200526500