Fleur de Lumiere Étoilée

Fleur de Lumiere Étoilée - Starlight Flower.

This route was climbed and named in honor of a climber who is no longer with us. I once asked her what she would name a route if she had the chance. This is it.

Start on the little ledge, and go up and left in the gully until you can cut right at a bolt to a big, horizontal slot. Continue up the face finding horizontal slots for gear when it's needed. It then turns into a vertical crack before a step up onto a 4 inch wide, exposed ledge at the first anchor. If continuing, clip the chain, and carefully move up the slab till you get to a flared crack (takes gear). Follow this up under the roof. Rest well, and then traverse to the end of the roof. Turn it, and follow the steep crack system to the top of the wall.

Start on a small ledge at the base of the gulley/crack system that arcs up and left.

Doubles from 0.2 to #2, a #4, and a red tricam. The tricam placement protects an otherwise runout 5.8 mantel before the first anchor. A bolt protects the step across move out of the gully at the very start.

There is a sweet thread through in the first slot.

Above the roof, there are two bolts on the sport project that are close enough to clip. It's possible to get good trad gear through here, but at the first of these two bolts, that gear can be hard to find, and clipping the permadraws protects from a pendulum-ing fall back under the roof.