All Locations > Colorado > Dumont vicinity > Abattoir

A Gift Shop Life

Name: A Gift Shop Life
Rating: 2.1

5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British

Routes in Abattoir

L › R R › L A › Z

	A Gift Shop Life S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Around the Block S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Children's Crusade S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Chopping Block S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Fleur de Lumiere Étoilée T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
	Fleur de Lumiere Étoilée (to the first anchor) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	Jungle, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	Losing Traxion S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Lumps & Cuts S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Mine To Keep S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Money Tree S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Search for Spoc, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Slaughterhouse-Five S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Tangelo S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Unnamed (suggest something!) S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Unstuck in Time S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Wifely Duties S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Woodland Treachery S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

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Type:	Sport, 90 ft (27 m)
FA:	TW
Page Views:	346 total · 20/month
Shared By:	Tal M on Aug 16, 2023
Admins:	Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

“Like so many Americans, she was trying to construct a life that made sense from things she found in gift shops.”

This is the current furthest right route. Start up some fun 5.9/10 face climbing to a roof. Execute some trickery to surmount the roof, then hike up to the base of another headwall, and clip two bolts en route to the chains.

Note: the climber will be out of sight of the belayer on the upper headwall - be fairly confident at the grade to get on it. There's a bit of spacing between the last bolt, and the anchors and the bolt spacing would keep you off the ledge unless your belayer is giving you some gym J-loops. Just make sure you've got your communication and expectations figured out on the ground.

If someone wants to add a low anchor at the 7th bolt (the one just past the roof), feel free, but personally I really enjoy the upper headwall movement and would encourage it for folks who do well on the lower crux for sure.

Location

It is the farthest right route at the crag, 10 feet right of Money Tree.

Protection

9 bolts to loweroffs. Despite having hooks to lower from, a rappel might be wise to protect your rope.

Edit: the 7th bolt has now been converted to a low anchor for those looking for it. It is 6 bolts to this anchor - bring an additional 2 to take it to the top.