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Routes in Abattoir
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A Gift Shop Life S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Around the Block S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Children's Crusade S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Chopping Block S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Fleur de Lumiere Étoilée T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Fleur de Lumiere Étoilée (to the first anchor) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Jungle, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Losing Traxion S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Lumps & Cuts S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Mine To Keep S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Money Tree S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Search for Spoc, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Slaughterhouse-Five S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Tangelo S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Unnamed (suggest something!) S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Unstuck in Time S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Wifely Duties S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Woodland Treachery S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | Alex Ruff |
| Page Views: | 205 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Alex R on Aug 16, 2023 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
Follow the crack until it runs into the roof, and then find a good rail just above the bolt to pull the roof and reach the anchor.
I found my fingers didn't fit well in the crack in parts, and I had to use the plentiful but not amazing crimps instead. For me, the roof and crimp face section were about equally difficult, but your mileage may vary.
It's possible to skip the roof by bailing right and then reaching back left to the anchor. This misses half the fun of the route, and the gear wasn't good over there, so I recommend clipping the bolt even though it will be to the left of your path.
Location
It ascends the obvious crack on the right side of the open book shared with Losing Traxion. The two routes share an anchor.
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