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Retour a Bretagne

5.10c, Trad, 460 ft (139 m), 4 pitches,  Avg: 4 from 3 votes
FA: T Renault 2018
International > Europe > France > 04 Northern Alps > Chamonix Mont B… > Aiguilles Rouges > Le BrĂ©vent

Description

Climb a huge corner in 3 pitches to a giant ledge shared with Frison-Roche, and top out on a beautiful widening hand-crack, This is a great option if there's a line on Ex Libris (as there was for us). 

1st Pitch (35m): Climb a loose corner with questionable rock quality. Be careful when pulling on blocks. Two bolts near the top on the right side, before a two-bolt anchor. 5.10a

2nd Pitch (40m): Continue up the giant corner on much better quality rock with good pro. This is a long and sustained pitch, but as most routes in the Alps, was still soft for the grade. Finish on an obvious ledge to the right at another two-bolt anchor. 5.10b

3rd Pitch (25m): continue up a bolted line on the face rather than continuing up the corner with all the loose rock. This will then traverse left onto the bigger ledge and cross with Frison-Roche. No pro necessary on this one, just 7 bolts to another two-bolt anchor underneath the striking crack to the right of the Frison-Roche bolted corner crack.

4th Pitch (30m): Start on a thin crack that gets wider as it goes over a bulge and continues to the top of Le Brevent. Wow, real crack climbing! This pitch is amazing, but save some big stuff or prepare to get creative with your gear for the second half. A final two bolt anchor rewards you at the top. 

From the top you can walk directly to the tram. Good job!

Location

The first corner up and left from Frison-Roche. Hike to the start of Frison-Roche, scramble up the left gully (3rd class) to the first obvious corner. There's a fixed line at the bottom, and to the left is a bolt line.

Protection

double rack to #3, 8-10 alpine draws, a #4 or two might be useful for the final pitch.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Looking at a climber on Frison-Roche and the beautiful splitter of this climb next to it.
[Hide Photo] Looking at a climber on Frison-Roche and the beautiful splitter of this climb next to it.
The crack of the final pitch! This one's worth it all.
[Hide Photo] The crack of the final pitch! This one's worth it all.
Looking down from the top of the second pitch
[Hide Photo] Looking down from the top of the second pitch
Start of pitch 3
[Hide Photo] Start of pitch 3
The base of the first pitch with Pascal on lead
[Hide Photo] The base of the first pitch with Pascal on lead