Avg: 2.6 from 18
votes
Start up the blank face to the right of aftershock. Clip a bolt from an awkward stance and head around a small ledge to the second stance. From here, pull on bomber crimps and jugs to a tough third bolt and trend right to a perfect handcrack. Place some gear or run it to the top. New anchor directly above the last crack to prevent four routes from sharing a single anchor.
update*
The first bolt is about as high as is normal for the area but id still recommend a stick clip.
I’ve added a bolt to protect some weird movement around the bulge near the second stance.
starts in between Aftershock and Iron cross
4 bolts with some hand and finger sized pieces for the top.
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I’m super bad about second guessing my own FA’s, so please take this with a grain of salt. Srsly, I’m the worst about doing this to myself.
As I stood on the ledge at the first bolt I kept thinking, “If the bolt at my knee were anywhere near my face I would feel so much less afraid!”
I’m getting older and am recovering from ACL surgery so I’m timid these days.
But really, how did you scrunch down to drill that low? I would have totally fallen off!
Was it cleaned on TR? If not, even more wild!! But if so, there are other stances from which to drill.
We ended up setting up a TR and the movement is super good. This is like the other harder routes on this wall in that you’re rarely directly in the bolt line.
The consensus in our group of old-ass-yet-experienced-had-beens:
If Skinny Len Crimps is .11a., re-work a bolt or two and this could be a really fun .11b. If so, you could possibly have a classic on your hands here.
A bolt at head height or higher from the first ledge would vastly improve the experience of climbing this very cool section of stone.
The other consensus among our group (with several hundred FA pitches between us) is that *none* of us have overstoked about our FA’s. (*self acknowledged, bald-faced lie*)
But srsly, you dudes gave yourselves 4 stars for a 40 foot route. We know it means a lot to you guys and all that, but one-star-for-every-ten-feet might be laying it on kind of thick? Aug 20, 2023
Salt lake
Salt Lake City, UT
I have to agree with Clay’s original statement though. Kinda awkward and confusing bolt line. I’d probably straighten out the first bolt to the left and down about a foot. It’s currently horizontal and strangely placed to the right of the other bolts creating some bad rope zig zag. Bolt four seems a bit off in its own world too. I’d suggest repositioning that guy as well.
Not trying to hate here, but how this route currently climbs, makes it a little less enjoyable of how it could potentially climb. Jun 26, 2025