The Pack
5.10a/b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 4 from 3 votes
Type: | Trad, Alpine, 600 ft (182 m), 5 pitches |
FA: | Mark Dagliesh, Stephen Senecal, September 6, 2020 |
Page Views: | 285 total · 18/month |
Shared By: | StephenSenecal Senecal on Aug 8, 2023 · Updates |
Admins: | Rukas Fodor, Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
Description
To start, traverse out on the large grassy ledge, about 20m right of Helix. Belay from the flat grassy ledge
just past the boulder.
P1: 5.7 35m. Pull a bulge above the belay and follow flakes, aiming for the base of a blocky orange
left facing corner to a bolted station at the base of the corner.
P2: 5.10a 45m. Avoid the corner by climbing up to the left. There is some gear in small overlaps.
At the bulge, pull around the corner and trend right to another left facing corner. Climb this
corner to a broad sloping ledge. Optional gear belay here or continue and watch for rope drag.
Traverse right to a 3rd left facing corner and climb this to a bolted station at the base of a finger
crack.
P3: 5.10b 35m. Climb the nice splitter finger crack. Follow the roof up and right until able to step
back left to pull the roof. Climb up and left, passing 1 bolt, to a bolted station at the base of a
prominent left facing corner system.
P4: 5.9 40m. Follow the left facing corner system with options for about 35m, until the main
corner starts to look blockier above. At this point, escape right up cracks and blocks to a large
comfy ledge on the prow and bolted station.
P5: 5.6 50m. Pull a couple steps above the belay, then stem your way out of a small alcove to gain
the ridge crest. Scramble along the ridge crest to easier terrain and gear belay.
To descend, take the standard descent down the west ridge (2x25m rappels, or some down climbing).
Alternatively, it is possible to rappel the route from the top of pitch 4 with a single 80m rope or 2x60m
ropes.
Recommended Rack: Single set to BD #3, Doubles to BD #1
Location
This route follows discontinuous cracks and corners between Helix and The Gift. Most of the climbing is around 5.8 with some short cruxes. Pitch 3 is a quality finger crack a great pitch and more sustained. All stations have been updated with bolted rappel anchors, making this a fun and low commitment route. Enjoy!
The route starts about 20m right of Helix. Walk the Helix ledge past one boulder and belay a few meters right of the boulder under a roof. Pull a bulge above the boulder, follow flakes aiming for the base of a broken left facing corner and a nice belay.
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