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North Couloir

Mod. Snow, Snow, Alpine, 1100 ft (333 m),  Avg: 3 from 2 votes
FA: unknown
Colorado > CO Ice & Mixed > Ouray (Ice/Mixed) > Potosi Peak

Description

This is an excellent snow climb on the major couloir that cleaves the north face of Potosi Peak. While access is trivially complicated, the climb itself is straightforward. From the bottom of the face, ascend the obvious couloir for 1100 feet. The topout is usually not corniced but may be steeper to climber's right.

At the top, turn right and go up the snowfield to the summit, or descend the gully south until it's possible to scramble back up the ledges to the west.

Ski back down or descend the standard summer route down the southeast gully.

If approached via Yankee Boy Basin, head west at 13,300' on the upper ramp to the southwest corner, descend 100 vertical feet to the flat shoulder, then traverse northward across the west face on social trails to return to the Potosi-Coffeepot saddle.

If approached via Weehawken Creek, head east at 13,300' and scramble down the southeast ridge (or go to the southwest shoulder as above and traverse back east on the lower ramp) to the southeast corner, then descend the drainage northeast to Weehawken Creek.

This route should be in good climbing shape mid- to late-June and can last through the summer.

Location

There are two reasonable approaches:

1) drive up the Camp Bird Road, following signs for Yankee Boy Basin, 8 miles to the lower trailhead for Sneffels (bathrooms), or continue slightly beyond (rough and not plowed) to around 11,450'. Climb up the hill to the north, then contour east and slightly north, staying above the cliffs, to the grassy area below the Potosi-Coffeepot saddle, then ascend talus to the saddle. Descend the other (north) side steeply, ideally on snow, for 400 feet and traverse east to the base of the couloir. This is the preferred approach and makes for a fairly short day.

2) drive up the Camp Bird Road 2.5 miles to the Weehawken Trailhead on the right. Hike up the trail 1.5 miles, then stay left and follow the trail that contours eventually into Weehawken Creek. Continue up this trail along the creek, staying in the main drainage to reach the north face of Potosi and the couloir. This approach is long but scenic, and the routefinding is easier.

Protection

Ice axes to comfort, crampons, and a helmet.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Moai!
[Hide Photo] Moai!
The downclimb off the Potosi-Coffeepot saddle.
[Hide Photo] The downclimb off the Potosi-Coffeepot saddle.
A foreshortened view of the route.
[Hide Photo] A foreshortened view of the route.
A view of the couloir from Teakettle.
[Hide Photo] A view of the couloir from Teakettle.