Type: Boulder, 15 ft (5 m)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 211 total · 10/month
Shared By: Logan Calder on Jul 27, 2023 · Updates
Admins: John Miller, Paul DeMay

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

From the same ledge and cave (good for storing chalk) as Buddy Nubbins, step up on the crack undercling, pull your feet out of the water, and traverse right with solid crimps and good slopy feet until you are in the center of the blank-looking wall, then climb up and top out direct. Solid holds, a few fun crimps, and good feet make this a chill but fun climb.

Important to traverse right rather than climb direct to get out from above the underwater ledge, which you would hit if you were to fall climbing direct. Also makes for a better climb on a more exciting part of the wall. I didn't fall, but it looks deep enough to me. I did fall on Buddy Nubbins once near the top, and that was fine.

Location Suggest change

Jump off the main black rocks cliff jump and then swim jumper's right towards the place where most people get out of the water (not the beach, though this is also to jumper's right). About 15-20 feet before you would get out of the water, look to your right to see a small cave surrounded by clean, lighter-colored rock (good for stashing a chalk bag) with good jugs on the right for getting out of the water and an underwater ledge to stand on while you dry your hands. Reach up to the undercling, pull your feet out of the water, and begin the traverse to the right, then climb up!

Looking from the beach, you'll see a cleanish lighter-colored section of rock facing more directly towards you than the rest of the cliff on looker's left. The top right of this section has orange-yellow painted-looking markings on it and to the left of the wide dihedral is the Buddy Nubbins bulge. You should be able to see the cave in the center as well. Nila Boo climbs the center of the blank looking wall to the right of the cave.

Protection Suggest change

Water landing :)

Photos

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