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TrainTruck

5.10d, Trad, 60 ft (18 m),  Avg: 4 from 1 vote
FA: Evan M
Washington > Central-W Casca… > Skykomish Valley > Index > Inner Walls > W Side > (b) Toxic - Tang Area

Description

Weeeeeeeeeeaaaaaaaaaaaahhhhhheeeee

Is it a train? Is it a truck? It’s a train truck! 

Start with a wake n bake followed by a river dunk. Throw your headlamp, hand jamies, puffy jacket, and maybe a knee pad into your pack then embark on the grueling approach to inner walls. 

This unique route climbs horizontally (and down) out of the mega cave just past “Tang”.  Begin standing on a small rock in the back of the cave and reach up to the first goodish hand jam. The first 15-20 feet are the crux but don’t let your guard down yet! A few tricky sequences remain in between sections of hanging stem box and horizontal chimney climbing. 

As of publishing this, dedicated route anchors don’t exist. I finished the FFA by climbing to a restful stem/stance about 10 feet up past the lip of the cave. From here, it’s easy enough to down-climb or down aid a few feet to the first bolt of Tang and lower from there. 

Obviously the route must be reclimbed (easier to reverse than to follow) to clean. 

Rock is surprisingly clean and solid but does seep a bit at the start. Doesn’t affect the climbing as much as one would think. 

Grit, Torque, TrainTruck!

Location

Begin in the back of the obvious, foreboding cave just past "Tang".

Protection

doubles #0.2-3 BD (triples 0.3-0.5 maybe nice for on-site and save a #1,2,3 for the end)
Headlamp
long pants
optional left kneepad
jacket for belayer
hand jamies are nice for the couple of wet jams at the start

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Good rest after the cruxy start. Photo by Ronnieee
[Hide Photo] Good rest after the cruxy start. Photo by Ronnieee
Climbing through the tricky lip sequence! photo by Ronnie
[Hide Photo] Climbing through the tricky lip sequence! photo by Ronnie
Train Truck!
[Hide Photo] Train Truck!
Climbing down and out! Photo by Ronnie
[Hide Photo] Climbing down and out! Photo by Ronnie
Start in the back of this cave! I swear its not as gross as it looks.
[Hide Photo] Start in the back of this cave! I swear its not as gross as it looks.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Bug Boy
Boulder, CO :(
  5.10d
[Hide Comment] Grade is up for debate Jul 13, 2023
Jon Nelson
Redmond, WA
[Hide Comment] Most interesting new route I've seen in awhile. Thanks for putting this up.
Did you come across any bats in there? Jul 13, 2023
[Hide Comment] It's about time somebody did this. Good job! We finally have something to climb on 100+ degree days. Jul 14, 2023
Bug Boy
Boulder, CO :(
  5.10d
[Hide Comment] No bats or cave critters. Pretty much zero vegetation or grime too because of how little sunlight makes it back into the cave. I initially aid soloed the route to clean it and was surprised how solid the (remaining) blocks are and how good the gear is. Jul 14, 2023
saign charlestein
Tacoma WA
[Hide Comment] Nice work. I think everyone who's walked by that cave has thought of doing the same thing. Cheers Jul 14, 2023
Michal
Index WA
[Hide Comment] Some dude at camp was telling me he climbed this around two years ago. Maybe that explains the cleanness. Told me he finished on Tang. Jul 15, 2023