Avg: 3.5 from 2
votes
Newer route on the south face of the Brévent. It starts just left of Fin de Babylone, trends left then goes straight up without traversing under the roof. Follow red glue ins.
P1 (25m, 5.10a). Start just left of Fin de Babylone or and follow the bolt line that meanders left.
P2 (35m, 5.8). More trending left.
P3 (40m, 5.10d). Move left after the belay then go up. Crimpy delicate movement.
P4 (30m, 5.11a). Start with some tricky face climbing moves until you get to the roof. Go through the notch on the left, there's a bolt with a chain for protection but it's hard to see below the roof. Cut right and scramble up to the next belay.
P5 (45m, 5.10c or 5.11b). There are two options for this line, left goes at 10c and right goes at 11b but they meet up later. The 11b goes through two bulges and has a fun sequence with a sloper.
P6 (35m, 5.10c). More vertical face climbing that eases at the top.
P7 (20m, 5.9). Walk left after the belay and scramble to the first bolt, go to the right under a small overhang.
15 quickdraws
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Longmont, CO
P1: 6a or 5.10a, Follow the left trending bolts. Contrary to this description there is no red glue on Pitches 1-5. Attempt to stay left of Fin de Babylone throughout the route.
P2: 5c or 5.9, This felt just as hard as the 6a P1. Straight up and then trend left. Thus begins the trend of “holds facing the wrong way.”
P3: 6b+ or 5.11a, Up and left across a chimney feature. Up sustained and somewhat run out odd slab climbing.
P4: 6c/+ or 5.11b/c, Hard move off the belay to more sustained Piola-brand slabbing to the roof. Lots of side pulls and an athletic move rightward to gain the chain draw. Easier above.
P5: 6b or 5.10d, slabbing on good rock to a bulge feature (stay left for the 6b) with some strenuous climbing and pretty good rock.
P6: 6a or 5.10a, athletic climbing on good holds. A roof pull is well protected but oddly run out above.
P7: 5c or 5.9, climb creaky side pulls and flakes to the summit.
Overall this route is worth doing but I found the climbing to be somewhat discontinuous and the crux pitches to be iut of character with the route at large. Aug 6, 2025