Type: Trad, Alpine, 1100 ft (333 m)
GPS: 39.3972, -106.106
FA: unknown
Page Views: 293 total · 9/month
Shared By: Thomas Beatty on Jul 7, 2023
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

The West Ridge of Quandary Peak is a nice change up from the standard East Ridge trail slog, but don't expect the slog to be much different on this side! It offers some Class 3 climbing high up on solid rock and thus is probably worth it if you're itching for an alpine scramble.

The route begins at the Blue Lakes Trailhead, which is now gated about 0.75 miles down from the dam. Once at the dam, take a social trail alongside it for a few minutes before heading up on a climber's trail NW, away from the lake. Follow this trail into a basin with the full West Ridge in view. At the end of this basin, instead of heading straight up to meet the ridge, head left along slabs and then back right to the saddle. From the saddle, the trail passes difficulties on the climber's right side (south) until you are about 13,500', where the trail passes over the ridge crest and starts ascending on the climber's left (north) side. Follow this easy trail until about 14,000', and then gain the ridge crest. Scramble on Class 3 terrain on the ridge direct. You'll go up a dirt gully, then pass a rock with a wide crack in it, then you have to ascend the crux headwall, the last of which is done by going up stair-step rocks in the middle of the face, then traversing left to easy ground. From here, trot to the summit!

I hear in winter this is a fun undertaking, similar to Kelso Ridge in difficulty; however, this might warrant a rope and some light pro if one is not comfortable soloing exposed snow gullies.

Location Suggest change

The Blue Lakes Trailhead can be reached on CO-9 from either Alma or Breckenridge.

From Breckenridge: head south on CO-9 for 7.3 miles to the Quandary Peak turnoff. This comes just after the big hairpin turns. Turn right here, and follow the dirt road all the way to the gated road closure.

From Alma: head north on CO 9 over Hoosier Pass. Drive through all the switchbacks, going about 9.6 miles from the summit of the pass. Turn left at the Quandary Peak turnoff, and follow the dirt road all the way to the gated closure.

Protection Suggest change

A light alpine rack.

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