Type: Boulder
FA: unknown
Page Views: 336 total · 19/month
Shared By: James Fontaine on Jun 30, 2023
Admins: Morgan Patterson

You & This Route


3 Opinions
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Description Suggest change

With all the right to left traversing on this boulder I figured it would be nice to try something in the other direction. Because so many people have come through these Central Park boulders over the years I'm hesitant to claim the first ascent but I haven't seen a reference or claim to a problem like this at Arch anywhere. If anyone does know a historical name or who might have first sent this problem please let me know and I'll update the details. 

Here's my description for the problem: Sit start as for Banana Pants and then traverse right, around the corner, staying low. Continue to traverse right, reversing the moves of the Sub Atomic Nuclear Penguin traverse section, until you meet up with Arch Rock Direct. Follow that line up and top out. 

This problem ended up being way cooler than I imagined it. The Sub Atomic traverse section is very challenging in reverse - personally I found it more difficult this way - and having to finish on Arch Rock Direct rounds it out as a tough test of endurance. I had to be incredibly precise with my beta through the middle section - a single move out of order and I'd lose all my tension and be on the ground. Give it a try and let me know what you think!

Beta: youtube.com/watch?v=ZSO3pSB…

Location Suggest change

Left side of Arch Rock, around the corner. Sit start as for Banana Pants.

Protection Suggest change

pad/spotter could help for the top out

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