Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

South Arete

5.10a, Trad, Alpine, 1500 ft (455 m), 13 pitches, Grade II,  Avg: 3.5 from 4 votes
FA: 1964
International > Europe > France > 04 Northern Alps > Chamonix Mont B… > Aiguilles Rouges > Index > Chapelle de La Gliere

Description

A long, moderate, and well-protected route featuring a full-array of climbing styles - from dihedrals and hand cracks to razor traverses and steep face climbing.  The views of the Mont Blanc Massif are reason enough to climb the route.  A classic at the grade.

P1-2 Climb the corner system to reach the crest of the ridge

P3-8 Stay close to the crest of the ridge surmounting various steep steps and moderate traverses culminating in the 'razor pitch'

P9-11 Continue up the ridge, passing a steep section before angling right along easy ground along the shoulder of the buttress to arrive at a notch before the final tower

P12-13 Surmount the two remaining short towers (crux) via challenging face climbing

Descend via a single rappel then a descending traverse across various gullies to reach the col of Aiguille de I'Index directly above the chairlift 

Location

Refer to main Chapelle de La Gliere page

Protection

Alpine rack, long runners

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

A nice, sustained 5.8 pitch ascending the first buttress
[Hide Photo] A nice, sustained 5.8 pitch ascending the first buttress
The last buttress on the ridge before arriving at the crux spires of the Chapelle de La Gliere
[Hide Photo] The last buttress on the ridge before arriving at the crux spires of the Chapelle de La Gliere
The short scramble before ascending to the "razor pitch"
[Hide Photo] The short scramble before ascending to the "razor pitch"