South Arete
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Type: | Trad, Alpine, 1500 ft (455 m), 13 pitches, Grade II |
FA: | 1964 |
Page Views: | 269 total · 14/month |
Shared By: | Ryan G on Jun 29, 2023 |
Admins: | Bogdan Petre, David Riley, Luc-514 |
Description
A long, moderate, and well-protected route featuring a full-array of climbing styles - from dihedrals and hand cracks to razor traverses and steep face climbing. The views of the Mont Blanc Massif are reason enough to climb the route. A classic at the grade.
P1-2 Climb the corner system to reach the crest of the ridge
P3-8 Stay close to the crest of the ridge surmounting various steep steps and moderate traverses culminating in the 'razor pitch'
P9-11 Continue up the ridge, passing a steep section before angling right along easy ground along the shoulder of the buttress to arrive at a notch before the final tower
P12-13 Surmount the two remaining short towers (crux) via challenging face climbing
Descend via a single rappel then a descending traverse across various gullies to reach the col of Aiguille de I'Index directly above the chairlift
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