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Unknown aka Hurd Crimpin’
5.12 YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E6 6b British
Avg: 3 from 1
vote
Routes in Upper Wall
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Father Pinch S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Mother Jugs S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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On Ramp S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Pat's Pissed S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Sister Sloper S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Speed S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Unknown aka Hurd Crimpin’ S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
| Type: | Sport, 40 ft (12 m) |
| GPS: | 40.00991, -105.82257 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 229 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | David Mills on Jun 26, 2023 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Description
To the right of Speed to the left of Mother Jugs is a great, steep crimping line with 3 bolts (very high 1st bolt). I felt like this is the hardest established route I’ve tried at Hurd Creek. There’s a little contrivance, since you are close to the jugs to the right on Mother Jugs, only after the crux though. Start of with some V3ish moves off the ground to the decent holds by the first bolt, and lock in for the crux. Climb a few brutal moves on sharp crimps, ending with a dynamic move to a one handed jug. From here, climb through 10+/11- climbing avoiding the jugs on the neighboring route right, with one airy move to establish to clip the shared anchor on Speed. This is worth doing and using some skin on! This route will probably shed some smaller holds/flakes, I broke a few.
If this was your route/FA, etc., please comment. We thought it was great and worthy of its own entry.
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