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The Dreaded North Face
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Avg: 1.5 from 2
votes
Routes in Tea Kettle
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Dreaded North Face, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Fence Line Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
| Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 151 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Peter Lenz on Jun 18, 2023 |
| Admins: | GRK, Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn |
Access Issue: (1) Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, & all the crags north of Twin Sisters are CLOSED. (2) No trash cans. (3) Highlining temporary ban in place for CIRO and CRSP
Details
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here until further notice. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's. Park officials and CRAG are working to regain access to this valuable climbing resource. Be patient and check back for updates.
(2) No trash cans anywhere in City of Rocks: urlzs.com/c4eZH
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
The Dreaded North Face 5.7
The main attraction of this climb is the fantastic summit! It is a short easy climb, with good rock, and adequate traditional protection. The approximate line of ascent follows the yellow line in the photo.
Ascent: Find the route: From a fence post on the North side of the formation, find a chimney. This is 5.8, and is not the easiest way. Continue clockwise around the formation until easy big blocks allow access upward. Start by ascending 3rd class large blocks, on the Northeast side of the formation. You will find yourself on a ledge with an off width size crack in front of you. Fear not! The City of Rocks Patina affords great hand and foot holds. This crack is estimated 20 feet in length, and affords good protection with normal size cams. Belay from a large chicken head and/or from cams in the crack. Climb the crack, then some face climbing to a diagonal crack under the summit block. The summit block appears to be detached and perched! Climb the diagonal crack, and then the climber's right edge of the summit block. Straddle or stand or handstand on the knife edge of the summit block. Enjoy the moment and the relative silence.
Descent: either 1) down climb the route; or 2) rappel from webbing/rope around the summit block. if you leave slings/webbing/rope on the summit block, be sure it is of muted/camouflage color(s). We left Spectra 5.5 mm cord, and it isn't visible from the road even with binoculars. Have 20 feet of camouflage webbing or rope, and a quick link or old carabiners if necessary. Spectra 5.5 mm cord is ideal. There is no need for a bolted anchor!
Location
From Breadloaves Parking/Camping area, follow Tea Kettle Trail South. Pass the upper Tea Kettle on the right. Continue a short distance, and the Lower Tea Kettle is on the left. You are ascending the North Side of the formation.
Protection
Fence Line Chimney Variation 5.8 PG-13
Above the barbed wire fence on the North Side of the Tea Kettle is a squeeze chimney. Reasonable, but imperfect protection can be obtained. I brought and use one #5 Camalot, two #4 Camalots, two double length slings, and a singles rack of medium cams. You can also find some decent nut placements and an imperfect slung horn in the chimney. A double runner over a large horn provides an excellent mid point anchor above the chimney. Finish on "Dreaded North Face," route. Rappel from slings around summit block. Consider bringing 20 feet of Spectra cord or equivalent.
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