Jay MacArthur's Kaiju Bear

This climb was developed and named in memory of Jay MacArthur. He was a mentor to many climbers and tireless outdoor advocate.The developers hope that climbers will enjoy this moderate bolted sport multipitch for many years in the future.

Warnings

This is a newly developed climb, which may have some loose grit or rocks on the route. Wear helmets and do not loiter around the base of the climb. Its is inadvisable to leave gear or pets at the base. There is a reason why the open routes on this wall include bear references.

The developers have had fixed gear stolen from some of their climbs. If the climb feels runnout or is missing anchors, it is likely someone has taken the gear or altered the climb.

Please avoid exploring any ledges or taped off area. Or climbs that are not opened, with hangers removed, with red tags or with fixed lines. There may be people below you and you will be putting them at risk should you kick rocks or debris on them. 

Climb this route at your own risk. As recent rockfall in Squamish has shown, rock faces and the trees on them are dynamic environments that have objective and climbing hazards.

Conditions

The climb is fully in the sun by the afternoon. The best time to do the climb in the summer is in the morning and evenings, or by headlamp for experienced parties. In the spring and fall, afternoons are best. This is a quick drying climb and can often be dry a day or two after the rain in the off season. In the summer it may be dry enough a few hours after a light rain. In an emergency the climb can be rappelled from before the last pitch with a 60m rope (tie knots in the ends).

Skills

The climb has some steeper climbing and friction slab moves at a moderate level. The grade of the climb is for the redpoint. A 5.8 climber may not be able to onsight or flash it. They should however be able to get up it. The steeper cruxes are easily aided by pulling on draws and stepping on bolts. Parties should be practiced in multipitch skills before attempting this climb. The developers expect that stronger climbers may well skip bolts and link pitches at their own risk.

This is a good practice climb before attempting the easy Apron slab routes.

Pitch 1

5.8, 12 bolts, 30m+. Belay from either the base or scramble up to a ledge. Easy climbing till the bulge. A dynamic move may be needed for those lacking sufficient height or with the wrong sequence.

Pitch 2

5.6, 9 bolts, 20m-. Start up the steeper bulge. Good holds and feet through the crux. An easier secondary crux near the anchor. There are 2 chains to reduce rope drag and prevent ledge falls.

Pitch 3

5.7, 13 bolts, 30m. Friction Slab. Tricky move off the start. Crux a bit higher. Secondary crux at the bulge. Trust the rubber!

Pitch 4

5.0, 6 bolts, 20m+. Easy climbing to the top.

The climb is located in the Chek Canyon Climbing Site. It is part of the North Star Wall and runs parallel to the only other open climb there, Ursa Minor.

Same approach as for Ursa Minor. From the middle Chek parking (just below Conroy's Castle) walk down the campground road and you will see a trail to your right. Walk on that trail through a boulder field till you see the start of several multipitch climbs. Ursa Minor is the one on the left, Jay MacArthur's Kaiju Bear is on the right.

Descent

Join the Ursa Minor descent trail. Follow the trail, easy hike to the true summit. Take cool selfies. Follow the trail into a ridge walk, then back to the campground. Please do not rappel onto other parties.

14 quickdraws plus anchor material, 60m rope, some water and a light jacket. The FA party forgot to bring headlamps when the climb was first ascended, they had to descend in the dark. Do not be like them, bring a headlamp.