Alabama Leprechaun

Same start as sub atomic, but move slightly left and directly up staying on the main rock face, not the left side bulge.

The guidebooks are incredibly confusing to differentiate between this climb and sub atomic. Both versions are super fun! Also, IMO the only way this gets a full grade higher is if the great incut crimp is off (see photo) and you need to climb up using the slopey sidepulls and/or crimps. After the great incut crimp the left version finishes at around V0 and the right maybe 0+/1-?

Direct line: for full value and great movement eliminate anything on the left bulge, as this feels way more natural than eliminating hands but not feet (since stemming makes the position somewhat easier). Felt much more like a true to grade CP V5, in line with mean green (hard 4), test piece, the dawg (nails), polish, unworthy, etc. Let me know what you think, and when in doubt do it both ways and most of all have fun on these two stellar climbs! 

Video beta for the direct line if you want it! youtube.com/shorts/gqziQV7_…

Middle of arch rock

Pad/spotter for fence or 2 pads. 

Nasty tetanus spike pole ~6 ft behind the rock. Something would have to go very wrong to land on it, but it would be an R/X type of situation. 2 pads worked nicely, or 1 pad + spotter. 

However, most of the hard moves are low so you could theoretically climb this without any protection if that's your jam.