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Routes in Trail Valley
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Chickies Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Chickies Traverse TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a V1 5 |
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Frigid Face Direct T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Hugh's Roof T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Milt's Roof T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R |
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Smoothies T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Steppin’ Out T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Wrinkles T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Yo-Yo T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
| Type: | Trad, 180 ft (55 m), 2 pitches |
| GPS: | 40.05202, -76.52513 |
| FA: | Hugh Herr and ?, 1978 |
| Page Views: | 262 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Milt Strickler on Jun 9, 2023 |
| Admins: | Justin Johnsen, SCPC, SWPACC, EPAC |
Description
Halfway between Milt's Roof and the right end of the large ceiling, there is a V- notch at the lip of the ceiling. Climb the thinly protected face up to the notch and climb through the notch (crux) to easier rock above. Continue to the top or rap off. It may be possible to traverse right to join Chickies Direct for a better finish.
I've never done this route, but Hugh did this not long after Milt's Roof was first done. I can't offer much about difficulty, protection, quality, etc. From the ground the protection possibilities weren't obvious to me, and I wondered whether it might be harder than 5.9. I included it here for the sake of completeness. Once again I solicit info from current Chickies climbers to make this post more helpful. My friend Bill Hillegas witnessed the first ascent and told me that there was very little protection.
Hugh did this at the ripe old age of thirteen or fourteen, when he was quickly becoming a much better climber than I ever was.
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