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Grizz goes to Unicorn Mountain

5.12-, Sport, 70 ft (21 m),  Avg: 3 from 2 votes
FA: Grizz
Arizona > Northern Arizona > Flagstaff Area > Upper Pumphouse… > Ultimates > Ultimates East

Description

A fun pitch up a square cut arete. Hard down low to fun arete moves and a pumpy finish. Fun movement when clean, but plagued by choss and sandy holds that you came to Pumphouse for. 

There is a 5.10 dihedral that is just to the right that is guaranteed to be the sandiest route you have ever climbed.

Location

Located up out of the drainage about 100 yards below the Metal Detector/Face Tat area. If you find the swimming hole with janky old high line bolts, go 50 yards downstream and look for a sloping boulder to the East on the edge of the drainage. A faint path through the trees past a few boulders leads up to the wall. You will first come to Trees Do Not Go Home, go right along the wall.

Protection

Bolts and a brush

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Unicorn mountain
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[Hide Comment] Zach assures me I climbed this thing. I have no recollection of such, but am giving it four stars for the name and the fact that it's an arete. If it was less than four I'd probably remember it, since on my scale, basically everything is 4 stars. Or at least 5. Oct 17, 2023