That Crack on the Salmon River
5.9+ YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA E1 5a British A0 PG13
| Type: | Trad, Aid, 1100 ft (333 m), 9 pitches, Grade IV |
| GPS: | 45.4049, -116.12373 |
| FA: | Ray Brooks and Mark Mason, approx. 1980 |
| Page Views: | 384 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Brian Carlson on Jun 2, 2023 |
| Admins: | Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn |
Description
The original Manning Crevice big adventure route. Described by Ray Brooks as 9 pitches, with some walking in between. I'm guessing that will work out to about 1100 ft total--it starts a little higher up the hill and finishes a little lower than Graveyard Shift which is in the ~1300 ft range. Figuring out the exact route remains a mystery (or an adventure). I'm only aware of one repeat ascent which was a party of three, including Ray Brooks on his second ascent of the route.
Pitch 1: Moon Crazed. varies from finger to hand sized crack. 110 ft, 5.8
Pitch 2: somewhat uncertain. Ray reports there is one aid bolt at a steep section. Jim and I climbed a pitch up to the base of the thin crack in the early 90s. I recall placing some small pieces down lower and then traversing left to find an old 1/4 in. bolt at a ledge shown in the overview photo. This could be either an aid bolt or protection for an awkward/difficult mantle move onto the ledge. This might be Ray and Mark's original line, but it could also be a bolt placed by a different ascent party heading up towards the prominent thin crack--in which case the original line may have trended further right. In either case, if that bolt hasn't been replaced in the interim it is overdue for it!
Pitch 3: Ray's topos clearly show this pitch going up the obvious ramp which cuts across diagonally from right to left.
From that point on, the direction is a bit unclear. I believe it likely goes to the right of the large block at the top of the pitch 3 ramp. From below this looks like the obvious route and Ray drew it that way in his article in Idaho Magazine. Above that the route goes out of view in my overview photo, but I think there will be another pitch or two to get to the height where The Cherry Tree Traverse crosses the buttress.
The other clue we've got is that Ray described one of the upper pitches, "The Chimney of Horrors" as, "Highly recommended as an unusual problem! This pitch features jamming on huge flakes inside a wide and scenic chimney." From a distance there appear to be a number of candidates for a wide and scenic chimney, so this might not be trivial to identify. I did see what appeared to be the start of a chimney towards the left side of the buttress leading up from the Cherry Tree Traverse. From the bottom it looked more overgrown than scenic, but once you got up it a ways that would likely change--so that might be a candidate, but it's also quite possible the Chimney of Horrors is further up the Buttress.
If you're going on a quest to find this line, I think your clues are:
1) As the only line known up the buttress it will likely follow the line which appears from the bottom of each pitch to be the best way forward--they weren't trying to keep their distance from some other established route.
2) Look for a wide and scenic chimney with jamming on huge flakes inside
3) In some sense it tops out on the Buttress (and I think this likely means a walk-off route very similar to "The High Dive"
If you're going after this quest I would add, exercise an extraordinary amount of caution, especially with regards to dislodging loose rocks above your belayer. This area tends to have a LOT of loose stuff on new routes. For instance, in clearing "The High Dive" I easily dislodged hundreds and hundreds of pounds of loose rock from the faces and cracks on pitch 2 alone and it was a fairly clean looking pitch. Whenever possible, situate the belayer where they're protected behind something mighty solid (or better yet, where possible, clean your route from top-down before climbing--it might decrease the amount of adventure, but will greatly increase the life-expectancy of your belayer).
Protection
Almost all protection will be placed gear. Assumption is a standard rack from stoppers through cams, but exact details are somewhat unknown. One aid or protection bolt on Pitch 2, almost certainly needs to be replaced at this point. Ray indicates that he didn't place any bolts above the aid bolt on pitch 2.



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