Potato Chip Flake
5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British PG13
| Type: | Trad, 350 ft (106 m), 3 pitches, Grade II |
| GPS: | 45.4049, -116.12373 |
| FA: | unk |
| Page Views: | 431 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Brian Carlson on May 31, 2023 · Updates |
| Admins: | Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn |
Description
Note: route hardware updated, Dec. 2025, and this route is now much, much safer.
Pitch 1: A fun new bolted start up to a medium size crack which turns into a romp up through an easy chimney/slot to the first belay anchor.
Pitch 2: An easy ramp leads to the absolutely huge but incredibly thin potato chip flake. Think light thoughts as you try to gently pull up the flake. At the top of the flake cross a diagonal crack followed by a section of thought-provoking slab climbing and another diagonal crack. Above this, the slab gets a little steeper and reaching the second anchors may prove a challenge.
Note, the flake was cleaned up in Dec. 2025, removing about 500 lbs of the sketchier stuff and making it a safer climb. Still, it's probably a good idea to be cautious/gentle with pulling on this as a leader, your belayer is in the line of fire if you pull a piece off!
Pitch 3: Work a very shallow dihedral in the slab to stretch into a thin-fingers crack. Another fun romp ensues, cruising up the finger-crack, followed by a long slab climb with some thin sections as well as some interesting larger features. Join Graveyard Shift pitch 5 at the very top, in its heavily featured run to the top of the lower buttress.
Location
Walk left around the buttress from Graveyard Shift's start. Up the hill a little way you'll encounter a line of bolts. This new start replaces a number of older, really bad options for reaching the first crack/chimney/slot.
Protection
New sport start takes you on an all bolts lead about 1/2 way up the first pitch. From there a few mid-size cams are needed to reach the two-bolt anchor atop pitch 1.
On pitch 2, midsize cams are needed in each of the diagonal cracks. Everything else is bolted. Please don't place cams under the Potato Chip Flake--at best a fall would almost certainly break out a chunk of the flake, at worst it would remove the whole flake from the wall, followed soon after by removing you and your belayer from the earthly plane of existence.
Pitch 3 requires some small cams and or stoppers for a long section of finger crack. The rest of the pitch is bolted. If you're planning to continue up Graveyard Shift, continue your pitch 3 lead past the first set of anchors (Potato Chip Flake P3 anchors) to the anchors atop the buttress (Graveyard Shift P5 anchors). If you're intending to rappel back down the Potato Chip Flake line, then the Potato Chip Flake P3 anchors are much better situated for that rappel.



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