Dance Into the Fire
5.10+ YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 20 ZA E3 5b British X
| Type: | Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 3 pitches, Grade II |
| GPS: | 45.4049, -116.12373 |
| FA: | unk |
| Page Views: | 223 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Brian Carlson on May 31, 2023 |
| Admins: | Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn |
Description
Pretty chill slab climbing at the start leads to a steeper finish on the first pitch. Above slab climbing mixed with occasional cracks
Location
Shares a start with Graveyard Shift but goes straight up instead of angling left. Alternative trad start in the dihedral to the right with small cams for protection--will likely get significant rope drag on the trad version before you reach the anchors.
Protection
First pitch is all bolts. Above it's likely mixed.
Bolts can be seen on the skyline to the right of the pitch 3 anchors on Graveyard Shift. Bolt line is about 20 ft to the right at the Graveyard Shift pitch 4 anchors.
While doing route development on Graveyard Shift I swung over and scoped out the route near the pitch 4 anchors. It has a mixed set of very extremely corroded 1/4 in. compression buttonheads and screwtops and some 3/8 mixed in as well. Assorted hangers. The first bolt on Dance Into the Fire (now shared with Graveyard Shift) was an old 3/8 plated 5-piece bolt and suffered from the wallowing out problem very badly--I replaced it with a stainless 1/2 in 5-piece. I would assume that all 3/8 bolts on this route must be replaced with 1/2 in. bolts due to wallowing. And all 1/4's need to be replaced with 3/8 or 1/2 due to the general crappiness of 1/4s and the major corrosion of these particular bolts. This route has the worst bolts I've seen in the area. Best approach to fix it is probably to start rappelling down from the Graveyard Shift pitch 5 anchors. Also needs a pretty intense cleaning!
I've given the route a lousy rating and an X because of the appalling condition of the bolts. With cleaning and bolt replacement it looks like a decent line.



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