Type: Trad, 160 ft (48 m), 2 pitches
GPS: 45.4049, -116.12373
FA: open project
Page Views: 349 total · 10/month
Shared By: Brian Carlson on May 31, 2023
Admins: Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Pitch 1 (~5.11, 50 ft) is a pure sport climb with closely spaced bolts and an eclectic assortment of holds on a just slightly overhanging face. Unless you manage to find some kind of rest, the crux of this pitch will likely be just a race between how quickly you can climb it vs. how much endurance you have in your finger strength.

Pitch 2 (~5.9, 110 ft) is a pure trad climb up a large dihedral. Starting with a group of thin cracks it quickly transitions to hand crack and then fist crack size, and then rattle-y fist size and then a very long bit of off-width. Near the top you might climb inside it if you're tiny.

Location Suggest change

At the north end of the Cherry Tree Traverse. Scramble up onto the large and fairly well consolidated stack of blocks to reach the base of pitch 1.

Protection Suggest change

Pitch 1 has a two-bolt anchor at the base and nine lead bolts over about 50 feet of climbing. There's a bolt on the ledge above the route to act as a re-direct to protect the second. There's a two bolt anchor at the base of the second pitch and a two bolt anchor at the top of the second pitch. Pitch 2 is all done on placed gear and a rack of stoppers and assortment of cams is required. Near the top of pitch 2 there is another crack which cuts into the left face and provides an alternative to placing huge cams in part of the offwidth section--this crack starts as a stopper crack and then transistions to mostly hand-crack size. Even with this crack though, you'll still want at least a few pieces in the "much larger than fist-crack" size. Huge cams or bigbros at a minimum. There are also a couple of large plates in the offwidth section which are strong enough for climbing but you probably should not place cams against--so some caution about where you place pieces will be needed.

At the top of Pitch 2 there is a second set of bolts, with a rappel setup (currently just a webbing triangle and rap ring). This allows for a short rappel down onto a class three ledge. A just slightly sketchy class 3 leads out of this large ledge area and to the main ascent/descent ramp (ie. descent hike for Graveyard Shift) about 150 feet below the Graveyard Shift top out. If the Cherry Tree Traverse was a scary way to get to the climb, this is a much less freaky way to get back down.

There is also a very old 1/4 bolt with Leeper hanger at the top of pitch 1 near the re-direct bolt. This was accompanied by an old stopper in the crack just left of it, and two, almost completely decomposed webbing triangles. Clearly an ancient, one-time rappel station, but a rappel from where is a mystery.

If Pitch 1 becomes popular as a stand-alone single-pitch sport climb then it may make sense to update the pitch one top anchors--right now they're really set up to work best for a two-pitch climb.

Photos

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