Type: Trad, 600 ft (182 m)
GPS: 45.4049, -116.12373
FA: First Known "Ascent" Brian Carlson, class 3, 29 Apr. 2023
Page Views: 279 total · 8/month
Shared By: Brian Carlson on May 31, 2023
Admins: Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn

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Description Suggest change

A long, south-to-north traverse route which provides access to the middle of Bliss Buttress about 1/2 way up "That Crack on the Salmon River" (the original 9 pitch version of "Moon Crazed") and ends at the base of the dihedrals area below the summit tower on Hit the Road Jack Buttress.  Provides access to the base of "The High Dive" which starts at the very end (north) of the Cherry Tree Traverse atop a large pile of well-consolidated blocks.

The traverse starts as just a hike along a steep grassy climb, but then crosses a bracingly exposed narrow ledge which is also fairly steeply ascending. The ledge is currently a bit dirty, but the outer part is fairly clean and provides enough traction to carefully ascend in approach shoes (when dry). At the top of the first section of the ledge, crawl up through a secure "tunnel" behind a block--if you're carrying a pack you might have to take it off and push it ahead of you. After the tunnel climbers are faced with another obstacle, crossing a loose block pile while still on exposed ledge terrain.  Once past the block pile, there is a long section of wider, somewhat sandy ascending ledge/slab up onto the middle of Bliss Buttress. From this point on the climbing is just crossing a large sand/dirt piled ledge to the end of the traverse at the base of "The High Dive" where the ledge ends on a nice wide grassy area. Caution through the sandy/dirt ledge section is also highly advised as a slide down the sand could send one on a catastrophic tumble down the slabs above and left of "Moon Crazed"

Location Suggest change

Hike up the standard ascent/descent ramp past "Solar Wind" as though you are heading up to the top of Graveyard Shift. As you approach the Cherry Tree, which marks a right turn on the standard ascent ramp, instead continue straight up the hill, avoiding the turn just after the tree.
A somewhat steep hike up the slope takes you past a short spire (with the bolted sport climb "Too Much Poultry" on its right arete).  This is followed by another grassy opening and a "choice". Turning right at the opening will take you back to the standard ascent route, continuing straight takes you to the ledge system of the Cherry Tree Traverse.

Protection Suggest change

Currently there are no bolts. The traverse has only been mostly done as a very sketchy class 3 or free solo. It's also possible (and adviseable) to rope up and treat it as a class 5. About 2/3 of the way across the narrow ledge, there's a decent spot for a mid-size cam in a crack at about chest height, and places for cams (or possibly tied off blocks) around the corner.  A 70 meter rope will reach across the traverse, up the dirty slabs after the ledge, and up onto Bliss Buttress.

When the rock is dry and climber is not carrying a pack, the traverse feels solid-ish as a sketchy class 3. But with a pack, or a bit of rain, or likely when the sand/dirt becomes drier and less consolidated in the later summer this will probably get pretty shockingly dangerous. Roping up and treating it as class 5 is a LOT smarter.

In the future we are considering adding some sort of fixed protection system, perhaps cables, to make this approach ledge a safer thing to do quickly, with a pack, and under less optimal conditions--however, none of that is in place yet.

Photos

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