All Locations > Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Little Cottonwo… > Intensive Care Slab

Psych Ward

Name: Psych Ward
Rating: 3.0

5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British

Routes in Intensive Care Slab

L › R R › L A › Z

	Burn Unit S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
	CDFT Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Intensive Care T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
	Psych Ward T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Shock Trauma T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13

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Type:	Trad, 90 ft (27 m)
FA:	Brian Smoot, D. Peggs, Jake Nelson 2023
Page Views:	95 total · 15/month
Shared By:	Rosemary Bloom on May 30, 2023
Admins:	Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C Page Updates (admin only)

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Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing

June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.

The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.

Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.

Read More:

saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…

SLCA and AF recreational leased area on LDS Church land

Access Issue: The Approach borders on a private area of land adjacent to the church Archives. Details

DO NOT use the road, as there are cameras and they will see you. Try to avoid knocking looseness onto the road, as that may jeopardize future access.

Description

A fun yet more sane way of making your way to the top of "Intensive Care" Slab....

Climb "Burn Unit" or the first pitch of "Intensive Care" to reach the belay ledge, Look up and left where 6 beefy bolts will show you the way. The route begins with a fun crystal band and a pretty orange and black varnish. Smear and edge you way through the technical feet and sharp crimps. After the last bolt climb up to a jug flake with a bush at the top, where a two bolt anchor awaits.

This route is a nice change of pace compared to its neighbor " Intensive care". instead of consistent faithful smearing "Psych Ward" provides fun edges with unique patina. This climb does not go to the top of the buttress, if you are eager to slap a TR on " Intensive Care" scrambling will be necessary