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> Magic Dome
Spellbinder
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
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Routes in Magic Dome
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Black Magic S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Juju Hand S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Mojo Boogie S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Spellbinder T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Voodoo Music T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, 350 ft (106 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | Dave Bale, Jack Bale, Eric Bale, Liz Zebold; 2015 |
| Page Views: | 207 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Gosh Glance on May 30, 2023 |
| Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Each year, the USFS monitors for raptor nesting.
A pair of golden eagles regularly nest on Bridge Creek Wall. When in effect, starting January 1, PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB or travel within 1/2 mile of Bridge Creek Wall. As a reference, the climb Condorphamine Addiction is just outside of this 1/2 mile buffer, and is OK to climb still. The closure extends through August 15, but there is active monitoring to determine if the seasonal closure can be lifted earlier.
In 2014, there was an active pair of peregrine falcons at Snow Creek Wall, but no official closure was put in effect due to the location of the falcons. The site will be continually monitored with changes or removal of closures updated as necessary.
A pair of golden eagles regularly nest on Bridge Creek Wall. When in effect, starting January 1, PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB or travel within 1/2 mile of Bridge Creek Wall. As a reference, the climb Condorphamine Addiction is just outside of this 1/2 mile buffer, and is OK to climb still. The closure extends through August 15, but there is active monitoring to determine if the seasonal closure can be lifted earlier.
In 2014, there was an active pair of peregrine falcons at Snow Creek Wall, but no official closure was put in effect due to the location of the falcons. The site will be continually monitored with changes or removal of closures updated as necessary.
Description
3-pitch mixed climb in the center of the Magic Dome area, ascending an obvious ridgy prow.
P1: follow bolts up the slabby ridge-like prow. The anchor for the first pitch is visible from the base, but you have to go out to the side since it's on the top of the ridge.
P2: Climb a short face and through a burly looking lieback flake, then 2 more bolts of face climbing gains the anchors.
P3: after moving your belay up and left (easy scramble), head out right and pull the obvious overlap and head up more slab climbing.
DESCENT:
Book says to rap to Black Magic anchors and then to the ground, but I'd argue to just rap the route and leave a bail biner. Black Magic's ledge is a pain to down-scramble from...
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