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Juju Hand

5.8, Sport, 95 ft (29 m),  Avg: 1 from 1 vote
FA: Dave Bale, Eric Bale, Jack Bale
Washington > Central-E Casca… > Leavenworth > Icicle Creek > Givler's & Magi… > Magic Dome
Warning Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures DetailsDrop down

Description

Leftmost slabby sport route on the left side of Magic Dome; The best of the 3 left side routes, IMHO. 

After clipping the first bolt, undercling some freakishly hollow flakes and pull a hard-for-the-grade move over the overlap to clip the second bolt. The ease of climbing increases greatly, but so does the spacing of the bolts. You'll never come close to dying, but get ready for some air under your feet.

There are a few thinner 5,8 moves but the bolt spacing makes it feel full value.

Location

Far left side of Magic Dome. Scramble around left and do some minor exposed scrambling. Hard to see any of these 3 routes until you're right there, but there's a few cairns and a faint boot path. It's only about 150 vertical feet. The scrub lines for all three routes are very apparent.

Protection

6 or 7 bolts? Two bolts for anchors, no chains. I left a bail biner, so be ready to do the same if it's gone...

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

My wife T/R'ing Magic 8 Ball. First two bolts for context.
[Hide Photo] My wife T/R'ing Magic 8 Ball. First two bolts for context.
On the first ascent of JuJu Hand
[Hide Photo] On the first ascent of JuJu Hand

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Gosh Glance
Seattle, WA
  5.8
[Hide Comment] The anchor has no chains, so we left a bail biner. Also, for this route and the other two to its right, down-scrambling is pretty sketchy, so I left a bail biner on the first bolt and rapped to the ground. Strongly suggest doing the same... May 30, 2023
Dave Bale
Leavenworth, WA
[Hide Comment] It's rated 5.8, Jun 5, 2023
Dave Bale
Leavenworth, WA
[Hide Comment] FA: Dave Bale, Eric Bale, Jack Bale Jul 8, 2023