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> Magic Dome
Juju Hand
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 1 from 1
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Routes in Magic Dome
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Black Magic S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Juju Hand S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Mojo Boogie S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Spellbinder T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Voodoo Music T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Sport, 95 ft (29 m) |
| FA: | Dave Bale, Eric Bale, Jack Bale |
| Page Views: | 167 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Gosh Glance on May 30, 2023 |
| Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Each year, the USFS monitors for raptor nesting.
A pair of golden eagles regularly nest on Bridge Creek Wall. When in effect, starting January 1, PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB or travel within 1/2 mile of Bridge Creek Wall. As a reference, the climb Condorphamine Addiction is just outside of this 1/2 mile buffer, and is OK to climb still. The closure extends through August 15, but there is active monitoring to determine if the seasonal closure can be lifted earlier.
In 2014, there was an active pair of peregrine falcons at Snow Creek Wall, but no official closure was put in effect due to the location of the falcons. The site will be continually monitored with changes or removal of closures updated as necessary.
A pair of golden eagles regularly nest on Bridge Creek Wall. When in effect, starting January 1, PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB or travel within 1/2 mile of Bridge Creek Wall. As a reference, the climb Condorphamine Addiction is just outside of this 1/2 mile buffer, and is OK to climb still. The closure extends through August 15, but there is active monitoring to determine if the seasonal closure can be lifted earlier.
In 2014, there was an active pair of peregrine falcons at Snow Creek Wall, but no official closure was put in effect due to the location of the falcons. The site will be continually monitored with changes or removal of closures updated as necessary.
Description
Leftmost slabby sport route on the left side of Magic Dome; The best of the 3 left side routes, IMHO.
After clipping the first bolt, undercling some freakishly hollow flakes and pull a hard-for-the-grade move over the overlap to clip the second bolt. The ease of climbing increases greatly, but so does the spacing of the bolts. You'll never come close to dying, but get ready for some air under your feet.
There are a few thinner 5,8 moves but the bolt spacing makes it feel full value.
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