Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Blue Baboon

5.11c/d, Sport, 100 ft (30 m),  Avg: 3.1 from 17 votes
FA: Mark Roth and Bret Ruckman, May 23
Colorado > Boulder > Flatirons > South > Devil's Advocate
Warning Access Issue: 2024 Crag Closures & Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures DetailsDrop down

Description

Start up low angle rock to a high first bolt. Easy climbing leads straight up through an amazing sea of huecos. Occasional 5.9 moves bring you up and under a small overhang. From here, the angle and difficulty escalate to a distinctive crux after bolt 11. After a couple of slab moves, you can reach out the final bulge to clip the anchor. An onsight may seem 12a, but once you figure out the moves, this will feel much easier and be a fun warm-up for the harder routes.

Huge thanks to OSMP and the FCC for allowing new routes in the Flatirons and an extra special thanks to Paul Glover, who really discovered this line, and due to his busy schedule, he graciously let us install the route in his absence.

Location

This is the rightmost of the four sport routes at The Advocate. When the trail reaches the center of the South face and passes between 2 big rocks, look up!

Protection

12 bolts and a 2 bolt anchor with hooks.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Gina in the crux of Blue Baboon.
[Hide Photo] Gina in the crux of Blue Baboon.
At the anchor.
[Hide Photo] At the anchor.
Blue Baboon.
[Hide Photo] Blue Baboon.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Brian Carver
Louisville, CO
[Hide Comment] This has 60 feet or so of fun 5.9 that leads to a slight pump on the incline and an onsight, tricky V3 sequence to surmount the lip. It seems most of the other routes have built-in warm-ups, and given the short winter sun window at this crag, I'm not sure I would repeat it. Definitely worth doing once. A great addition to the Flatties. Dec 5, 2023
Andy Hansen
Longmont, CO
  5.11c/d
[Hide Comment] The Flatirons doesn’t have a lot of endurance options in this grade range, so this route stands out in that regard. Generally speaking, this has good rock, but there are a few crispy and licheny bits here and there. This is a great warm-up or project if you’re operating at this level. An excellent addition that I would climb every time I’m at the cliff…. Sep 22, 2024