Type: Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 3 pitches
GPS: 45.4049, -116.12373
FA: Jacob Wilke, Jim Carlson 05/27/2023
Page Views: 300 total · 8/month
Shared By: Jim Carlson on May 28, 2023
Admins: Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn

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Description Suggest change

Pitch 1 begins in a handcrack in a dihedral, with agressive feet and a bouldery crux near the top, just before stepping right to a comfortable bolted belay at a nice ledge. 5.10D

Pitch 2 continues up the right leaning crack with dainty feet to a short bomb bay chimney, and then steps out to the left of the crack system past 2 bolts to a large belay ledge under the prominent roof. 5.10C  While Pitches one and 2 could be run together, there would be some rope drag and the crack would require alot more cams in the #2-2 1/2 Friend size.

Pitch 3 (the money pitch) turns the roof with a nearly inverted move.  The route then continues, airily above the roof, with close bolts to prevent winging over the roof.  The climb ends with an absolutely stellar, laser cut finger crack ascending straight up the face above the roof to a belay at the top of the wall.   Rings exist here for a 2 rope rappel which will reach the ground, or a walkoff is not difficult.

Named in  memoriam of a special young lady's horse.

Location Suggest change

There are 2 ways to get to Fantasy's Kingdom.   The first approach ascends the gully just before (downstream of) the Car Hole.  The route is on the left, in a right sloping dihedral shortly after entering the gully proper.   

A less steep approach, and the better walk off, is up the ramp that accesses Dream of White Sheep and Potato Chip Flake.

Protection Suggest change

Thin hands to tight fist size for the first 2 pitches. TCUs for pitch 3. Pitch 2 has 2 bolts and pitch 3 has 9. The belays as well, are fixed.

Photos

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