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The Learning Cave Chimney

5.9, Sport, TR, 48 ft (15 m),  Avg: 3.9 from 26 votes
FA: Philipp Arndt, 2023
California > San Diego County > N San Diego County > Mt Woodson > Northern Territ… > Learning Cave

Description

The stemming chimney in the cave just below Undertow. Very unique climbing experience in comparison to most other routes at Woodson, and definitely worth checking out. The setting is quite scenic and it's also an excellent place to take beginner/intermediate climbers to a manageable, yet exciting toprope.

Location

Coming from the top / Out of Sight area, take a left just before PhD and the trail will take you to the top of the chimney. To get to the large boulder with the anchor on it, cross over the top of the chimney on the east via a large boulder that bridges both sides (or, make the exciting jump from the flake across the chimney). To get to the base of the climb either rappel or walk back across the chimney and go left and down under the overhang. You can walk straight down the slab, or scramble deeper down through a little improbable-looking opening just uphill.
(GPS: 33.011296, -116.968984, approach track) 

Protection

Two-bolt anchor. Three bolts for the lead. 

Note: No need to extend the anchor over the lip of the chimney. The edge below the bolts is rounded and it's possible to run a rope over it. A standard sport anchor suffices.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Learning Cave Chimney, 5.9 (Mt Woodson, San Diego)
[Hide Photo] Learning Cave Chimney, 5.9 (Mt Woodson, San Diego)
Stew getting up there just in time for a sunset top-out <br> <br> (note: this was before a 2-bolt anchor was added)
[Hide Photo] Stew getting up there just in time for a sunset top-out (note: this was before a 2-bolt anchor was added)
Selena showing us how to "rest" mid-route. Most mortals opt to power through.
[Hide Photo] Selena showing us how to "rest" mid-route. Most mortals opt to power through.
Katie reaching for the final jug on the Learning Cave Chimney
[Hide Photo] Katie reaching for the final jug on the Learning Cave Chimney
Michael just being happy about that top out jug
[Hide Photo] Michael just being happy about that top out jug
Stew working his way up, just before sunset
[Hide Photo] Stew working his way up, just before sunset
top of the cave - good place to enjoy the sunset (in the summer months)
[Hide Photo] top of the cave - good place to enjoy the sunset (in the summer months)
Unless you are significantly taller than 6 ft and quite flexible, you'll likely have to go into a full body bridge stem to make upward progress. On lead, you can kick one leg out to the other side for better clipping stances.
[Hide Photo] Unless you are significantly taller than 6 ft and quite flexible, you'll likely have to go into a full body bridge stem to make upward progress. On lead, you can kick one leg out to the other side…

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Stewart Grant
  5.10-
[Hide Comment] A gem of unconventional climbing. It's easier if you are tall and flexible, it felt around 10- to me, but it's hard to rate such a climb. I gave this climb full points because I thought I'd never pull the moves at first glance only to be surprised by the ease of movement. The lichen at the top adds an interesting change of pace right at the crux. Jul 28, 2023
Philipp Arndt
Munich, DE
  5.9
[Hide Comment] As of August 2023 there's a clear trail leading to this climb from the top of the PhD boulder. Aug 28, 2023
Devin M
[Hide Comment] Fun climb! But was bolting this for lead really necessary…? Feb 3, 2024
Nick Tripp
San Diego, CA
  5.9+
[Hide Comment] Practice your.. handstands? to train for this thing.

I'm 5.6 and can't do a handstand, it was super tough. May 11, 2024