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SchistWay

V2-3, Boulder, 15 ft (5 m),  Avg: 2.7 from 3 votes
FA: unknown
Vermont > 1. Northern Ver… > Bolton Area > Bolton Bouldering > Bolton Notch Rd… > Ship's Prow
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Description

Oops I broke a hold.... but at least this time it made a JUG! There is a new two-hand jug at around 5ft near the right end of the V0 traverse flake. Sit start left hand on a positive pinchey sidepull near the edge of the crack and right hand on a one and a half pad slick edge sticking out from just under the roof. Pull on and make a powerful move to the jug (or stand start on the jug for a slightly easier variation). Bump out right to an 6inch long undulating crimpy edge with slopey parts and crimpy parts, work your feet up the ledges on the crack/flake out left until you can grab the prow. Next choose your own adventure and climb straight up to the large horizontal rail using an okay gaston and the good pinch on the arete OR if youd like to make the climb longer traverse your hands around the prow until you end up a couple moves into Ship of Fools V3 and top out on the opposite side of the prow than where you started (this variation is probably more pumpy v3?) 

Location

The start is just to the right of the big V0 traverse flake and just to the left of the distinct prow facing the roadside

Protection

Several Pads is good

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

SchistWay - the way of broken holds that sometimes create gems!
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Yellow is the line as it was first done
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Green is the extension around the corner that finishes on Set Sail 
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Blue is the variation that goes straight up from the jugs to some crimps
[Hide Photo] SchistWay - the way of broken holds that sometimes create gems! Yellow is the line as it was first done Green is the extension around the corner that finishes on Set Sail Blue is the variatio…

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

G D
  V2-3
[Hide Comment] You can also climb a variation where instead of reaching out right to the crimp-rail you can build really high feet when matched on the jug and pop straight up to a small crimp and a right hand sidepull that I used as a gaston left hand when I went out right to the arete to climb the problem originally. Another fun variation that was just hiding in the moss! Jul 31, 2023