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Rock Around

V5, Boulder, 14 ft (4 m),  Avg: 1.7 from 3 votes
FA: Taylor Roy?
Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Big Cottonwood… > DOJO Area

Description

A really unique arete problem with subtle moves and nice rock.

Sit start with left hand on the brick undercling, and right hand on a gaston with a thumb catch.  Rock over the right heel and find the perfect body position to work right around the arete to the other side.  Finish with compression between edges and a slopey lip to a slightly challenging rock over onto the slab.   

The sit with both hands on the undercling is awaiting a send.  Might be in the V8-V10 range?

Could be harder, or easier?  Also, if this has already been done, I will happily change the FA information.

Location

The North arete on the left side of the DOJO wall.  

Protection

Two pads at least.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Rock Around- V4+.  Start on indicated holds, then move right around the arete to a compression finish.  Awaits a send starting with both hands on the undercling.
[Hide Photo] Rock Around- V4+. Start on indicated holds, then move right around the arete to a compression finish. Awaits a send starting with both hands on the undercling.
Rock Around- another view.  After making it around the arete, follow the right lip until you can rock over the slab.
[Hide Photo] Rock Around- another view. After making it around the arete, follow the right lip until you can rock over the slab.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Joe Feldman
SLC, UT
  V5
[Hide Comment] I did this problem today, as well as the double undercling start. I used a kneepad to help get around the arete for both and thought the double undercling start was only marginally harder. Both felt V5ish. The sequence that got me around the arete was not at all what I expected. One of those “hard ‘til it’s not” type problems. Also, if you opt for a kneepad, take note that the rock sliced a hole through my slim Send pad. My thicker Send pad held up just fine. Apr 30, 2023