Climb the cave from Hermit's Cave, but instead of following the arete up to the jug and left exit, reach straight up to the lip, and top out. There are nice holds to the left and a spot to heel hook directly above the jug. Once rocked over onto the lip, there's another jug on the second lip further up that you can pull on.
I prefer to do this climb from the deeper lip in the cave, which can add some difficulty to both Hermit's Cave and this problem.
It is at the Hermit's Cave Boulder.
2 -3 pads.
Newton, MA
It's definitely harder, but I'm not sure by how much. The throw to the lip versus the traverse left felt about equivalent. The topout is harder than on the original but felt repeatable after trying it out a couple times. For me, this problem is easier than Reefer Madness (sit start) or Hepatitis. I would be interested to see what others think! Jul 21, 2023
Dirty South
Get after it. It is such a fun variation. Jul 5, 2025