Type: Sport, 35 ft (11 m)
FA: B. Middleton (2019)
Page Views: 233 total · 14/month
Shared By: Mikel Madsen on Mar 20, 2023 · Updates
Admins: Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan

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Description Suggest change

This is the dihedral open book feature and the first route you encounter when coming into the Ace of Hearts wall. Easy jug features bring you into the dihedral. Solid right hand incut in the middle of the dihedral will help move you up to the bulge. Pretty cruiser through the first 4 bolts. Crux comes at the 5th and last bolt on the bulge. Make sure to get high feet to clip the last bolt on the bulge, this can make pulling the bulge a lot less heady. Bulge really doesn't have much for holds. Make sure to check where your feet need to go before trying to paste your hands on to tiny features.  The anchor is now within 5 feet of you on the other side of bulge.  There is a solid right hand side pull incut right at the bulge to help give you a few more feet to work with. Once you pull the bulge throw a foot up to smear on the upper portion of bulge and its over. Good rock and good route to practice pulling over a small bulge feature.

Location Suggest change

When heading down the gully/ drainage trail between Powerlines Area and Friction Slab. Hike down past Friction Slab wall and look to your left for a trail. Follow this trail around a small bend in the rock. When you come around the bend all the routes come into site right away. This is the first route you encounter coming into the Ace of Hearts Wall. 

Protection Suggest change

5 bolts, chain anchor shared with Heart Stopper.