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Prom King

5.12d, Sport, 55 ft (17 m),  Avg: 3 from 1 vote
FA: Evan Wisheropp
California > Northwest Calif… > Promontory > Exploding Energy Boulder

Description

Crank a crimp traverse rightward to a decent stance to clip the third bolt. Keep cranking through tenuous arete-work (crux). Once you're through this crux, you can relax, because now you'll just join the entire crux of Reality Check. The rope and falls are all safe because you never actually cross your body onto the right side of the arete on Reality Check's crux. After the froggie perch shared with both routes, it becomes clear you'll move back fully to the left side for the remainder of the route. Finish on the anchor shared with Prom Date.  

Logistics: Long draws and a few slings are mandatory! Read the protection section below. It's pretty convenient to top out the Exploding Energy Shard boulder by any other route, then rap/lower down the line to hang draws and see how the rope runs.  

History: I sent this route in August leading the route on RBs (removable bolts), but with the backup of a slacked top rope. I had the vision of leading the route solely on RBs; attempting to mimmic the legendary first ascent of Reality Check where Eric Chemello and Paul Humphrey led the route on RBs. Baller and terrifying!! Well, I didn't have enough RBs, and RBs sometimes rip out of the wall (they pulled the crux of Reality Check with two equalized RBs). I waited nearly 6 months, and gave up on the psychotic vision.

Grade: Oh, and did I mention that we had settled on the grade of 5.13b because of the hard crimp traverse and a wild comp style coordination dyno crux. Well, over the many, many sessions on the thing, a few of the crimps flaked around and got better. Then on one session on bolting day in February, a chunk broke off the crux hold and unfortunately revealed a really good crimp, robbing the world of the super unique dyno that I was so proud of... and dropped the grade from the 13b listed in the guidebook. At least in good news, the climbing is much more consistent now, and many more people will enjoy it. 

Location

Starts just right of Prom Date.

Protection

8 bolts.

This route took maybe nine or ten trips to work the bolt placements and visualize clipping stances and how the rope will run, and I've got it as good as it will go, but that is only if you use proper slings and long draws!! If you want to keep your rope extra happy, I recommend these draw lengths in order: 8", 18-24", 18", 12", 18", 12", 24", 18", then anything on the anchor. You can top out the Exploding Energy Shard boulder by any other route, then rap/lower down the line to hang draws and see how the rope runs.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Evan Wisheropp
  5.12d
[Hide Comment] I'm definitely anxious for more people to get on this route and give a [civil] vote on the grade. I only spent one day on it after the breakage that dropped the grade from 5.13b, so 12d is just a guess. It's definitely harder than Reality Check! Mar 17, 2023
Evan Wisheropp
  5.12d
[Hide Comment] I top roped this one again today and we’re seriously questioning my 12d vote. I think that might be a sandbag. Maybe more like 13a. Forgot how gnar (and cool) it is. I cruised Prom Date right before and that one is incomparably easier. Jul 20, 2024