Musong

This is a bit of a mystery route, despite the fact it heads nearly to the top of the Cat Wall. It has been rebolted with Titanium, but I couldn't find anyone who had been up it. It's pretty clear it does not get much traffic, as several pitches have flaky rock and even piles of sand/pebbles that is pretty uncharacteristic for most routes in Tonsai. Perhaps next time I could do some cleaning.

The line parallels to the right of Heart Of Darkness. The pitches can be described in order as; meh, good, ok-ish, excellent, and ok. 

P0. 5.0, Climb up the fixed line on the right side of the approach trail. This will take you inside a cool cave hang. There's often a highline rigged here. 

P1. 5.10a, ~3 bolts. Stem above the cave exit with some OK-ish rock to a big bowl. Clip the old anchor to protect the follower, then walk right to the anchor with old disintegrating rappel 'biners. Don't worry, you won't rappel here unless you bail.  

P2. 5.11d, ~11 bolts. Traverse up and right with a little bit of flaky rock, then bust straight up the bulge. This is the crux of route. The crux is really unique; tricky and thoughtful. Half the pump comes from figuring out the moves, and the other half comes from clipping a few bolts that are in really unfortunate and awkward to clip locations. Belay on a good ledge. 

P3. 5.11a, ~14 bolts. Surprisingly long pitch that just keeps going. It starts ugly though. Traverse left on what might be the ugliest rock in Tonsai. It's not too hard there, just climb slow to avoid kicking off flakes with your feet. You'll still be pulling sand down into your eyes though. Keep working left to the arete where the rock improves a bit and it becomes fun. Later, you'll climb out the dirty taint of a large stalactite; make sure use some slings and back cleaning or you'll have some wicked drag. Good belay stance. 

P4. 5.11c, ~10 bolts. This is the money pitch! Head up and left with some really glorious holds and creative climbing. After the crux of the pitch, you'll enter a vertical tunnel for two more bolts. Phenomenal belay stance! 

P5. 5.10d, ~8 bolts. Head up and then right to pull a bulge. A few ways to go about it, one of them is a bit grassy. The pitch ends all too soon at the base of the giant cave near the top of the Cat Wall. It's probably best to just lower down to the previous belay. If only the pitch continued up the right side of the cave, to continue paralleling Heart of Darkness to the top of the wall. Don't drop anything from the top or it will land on the rooftop hangout at Wat's bar. "Second floor, security!"

Descent: Pretty much your standard Tonsai steep multi-pitch rap with some backclipping when needed. Rapping from the top of P2 can get you back to the cave at the start of P1 with some creativity. Don't rap from the top of P1. 

Hike up to the Cat Wall just above Wat's bar. Once at the wall, there will be a fixed line going up and left and another going up and right. Go right up into the cave. 

14 draws should be enough. Several slings also.