El Corazón climbs one of the most aesthetic lines in the entire Chalten Massif to the summit of it’s tallest mountain. The 4000+ foot east face looks like a perfect pyramid from the base and El Corazón climbs a line of splitter cracks straight up the middle.

Climb 3 or so approach pitches on lower angle rock, ice and snow to the base of the true start. It appears rock fall may have altered the original start to the route but there is a low angle ramp that leads to the crack system from the left side. Climb the system to the soaking wet Aquarian Roof and get into aid mode to climb this C1 crack that would probably go free at easy 5.11 if it were ever dry. Climb more low angle pitches that are often wet or icy to the snowy ledge system. From here, the granite gets steep, golden, and splitter. Continue up incredible cracks for a few thousand feet to the summit ridge and then to the true summit via easy ice and mixed terrain. Descend The Franco-Argentina or Royal Flush. Purchase Rolo’s guidebook for a topo

January 2025 Edit: I attempted this route again and encountered a new 10 meter tall detached flake at the base of the Aquarian roof. We opted to bail and I would recommed parties interested in this route to skip the stardard start and instead climb the earlier pitches of the Pilar Este and join in on the snow ledge about a quarter of the way up. 

More Info: pataclimb.com/climbingareas…

East Face of Fitz

Doubles from .2 to #3, one #4, some triples, set of nuts