La Whittom

A north facing pure ice line that can often have a thin start. It does not get any sun in the winter.

P1: WI5, often thin. Belay from ice on the right or from bolts. There is a bolt line on the right wall just short of the top. Above the lip there are also a couple single bolts set back about 10-15m above the lip. 70m ropes are advisable if aiming for these. 60m (or 70m to the bolts above the lip).

P2: WI2-3. Inspect the sustained ice above, decide what line you want to take on P3, and identify a suitable belay stance. From the lip of P1 to the start of the next major step that constitutes P3 is about 50m or 60m, and trivial, so basically you pick whatever line will take you most directly to your next belay stance, wherever you want that to be, and climb until you’re out if rope. Belay off screws. Take note of your rappel options on the descent. You may not be able to rappel off v-threads to reverse the first pitch and should take note of where the bolted quicklinks are while climbing P2 (one just before the lip at the top of p1, and two on the right after the lip of P1's top out).

P3: WI4. Take the path of least resistance and belay off screws. 45-60m. 

P4: WI3-4. Finish the route to the trees. 20-40m depending on where you belay for P3.

Descent: v-thread to get back to the top of pitch one. Then either continue off v-threads or use one of the quicklink equipped bolts on the right. Note that there are two sets of bolts on the right of the low angle rambling ice above pitch 1. I can confirm that the two 60m ropes will make it to the ground from the lower of these two bolts. Both have quick links. Unclear if 60m ropes will make it from the higher of the two bolts.

48* 21' 13" North, 70* 07' 17" West. There's a pull off right in front of the climb. Across the street from the pull off there's a small shack. Walk towards the climb, cross the river and you're there. 5 minutes from the car.

Screws including stubbies. At least double 60m ropes. 70m are helpful for this route, and make it possible to finish the route in 3 pitches instead of 4 (but the second belay will be semi hanging and awkward).