Type: Trad, Alpine, 1000 ft (303 m)
FA: Maurizio Giordani (Italy) solo, 7/12/1990. Corkscrew sit start: Owen Silitch, Jack Taylor, and Ben Farrar (USA), 1/02/2023?
Page Views: 224 total · 13/month
Shared By: Skeletor 69 on Feb 3, 2023
Admins: Mauricio Herrera Cuadra

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Description Suggest change

The Giordani-variation begins at the last saddle of the NW ridge of Guillaumet. If starting from Glaciar Fitz Roy Norte this is the 2nd saddle lookers right of the "wave" looking rock on the NW ridge. Climbs ~ 1000 feet (300 m) of moderate terrain (up to 5.8) to the start of the Comesña-Fonrouge which the first ascensionist climbed to the cumbre. When we climbed it we had bailed from Aguja Pollone after attempting the sit start so we hiked from the base of the sit start all the way to the base of the Giordani, simul-climbed the Giordani to the base of the Comesña-Fonrouge descended/traversed to Paso Guillaumet where we bivied and climbed the Brenner Ridge to the cumbre the next day in what we are calling the corkscrew sit start variation. It is more aesthetic/logical to finish with the Comesña but we heard the Brenner was a better route so thats why we did what we did... 

Location Suggest change

Southern most saddle along the NW ridge of Guillaumet

Protection Suggest change

Gear as for Comesña-Fonrouge or Brenner-Moschioni