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Giordani variation to Comesaña or Brenner

5.8, Trad, Alpine, 1000 ft (303 m),  Avg: 3 from 2 votes
FA: Maurizio Giordani (Italy) solo, 7/12/1990.
International > S America > Argentina > Santa Cruz > Chalten Massif > Cerro Fitz Roy… > Aguja Gillaumet

Description

The Giordani-variation begins at the last saddle of the NW ridge of Guillaumet. If starting from Glaciar Fitz Roy Norte this is the 2nd saddle lookers right of the "wave" looking rock on the NW ridge. Climbs ~ 1000 feet (300 m) of moderate terrain (up to 5.8) to the start of the Comesaña-Fonrouge which the first ascensionist climbed to the cumbre. When we climbed it we had bailed from Aguja Pollone after attempting the sit start so we hiked from the base of the sit start all the way to the base of the Giordani, simul-climbed the Giordani to the base of the Comesaña-Fonrouge descended/traversed to Paso Guillaumet where we bivied and climbed the Brenner Ridge to the cumbre the next day, in what we elected to call the corkscrew sit start variation. It is more aesthetic/logical to finish with the Comesaña but we heard the Brenner was a better route so thats why we did what we did... 

Location

Southern most saddle along the NW ridge of Guillaumet

Protection

Gear as for Comesaña-Fonrouge or Brenner-Moschioni

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The Giordani variation is the first ridge right/SE of the sun shade line in photo. The lower red line in the shade is the route we took to approach from the glacier.
[Hide Photo] The Giordani variation is the first ridge right/SE of the sun shade line in photo. The lower red line in the shade is the route we took to approach from the glacier.