All Locations > Ohio > Central Ohio > Marne Rd > E Poison Ivy Wall ("T…

The Twelfth 12

Name: The Twelfth 12
Rating: 4.0

5.12c YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks IX- UIAA 27 ZA E6 6b British

Routes in E. Poison Ivy Wall ("The Cave")

L › R R › L A › Z

	Basket Case, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Born on the Fourth of July T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13
	Broken Dreams S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Bush League S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Calf Ripper T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Crackhead S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Crimps for Wimps S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Deep End, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Don't Break It if You Can't Buy It S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Final Exam, The S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Ivy League S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Jugs for Thugs S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Just Say No to Crack S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Landers Last Gander S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Leaves of Three S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Longaberger S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Major League S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Ninja Skill Called Trad S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Pistol Squat S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Reach for your Dreams S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	Roofs for Goofs S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Sink or Swim S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Twelfth 12, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Unfinished Business S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
	Wet Dreams S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

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Type:	Sport, 70 ft (21 m)
FA:	Jordan Katz, Jan '23
Page Views:	184 total · 9/month
Shared By:	Jordan Katz on Jan 29, 2023
Admins:	Courtney Curtner Page Updates (admin only)

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Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: Private Property Details

The right (east) side, all roped climbing, is owned by Village of Hanover, which seems ambivalent to climbing. Left side, bouldering, is private property, but the owner has not had a problem with climbing SO FAR. Continued access is far from guaranteed! Rapidly growing crag traffic has become a potential issue.

On the bouldering (west) side, please do not hang out up top or go exploring above the main cliff line. It is private property and we need to keep a low profile. The owner has been hands off so far. Let's try to ensure things stay that way please. Hanging out up top could cause problems with the property owner.

Please do not climb above the roped climbs. Hanging out on the edge of the cliff without ropes is dangerous and the last thing we want is to have an ambulance/injury/fatality there. Please don't endanger crag access through short-sighted behavior!

Please be upstanders and take good care of the crag to help preserve access. Don't leave your trash, and even pack out any trash somebody else might have left behind.

Description

Starts on a vertical face, then climbs through a series of large overhangs to a vertical headwall and more of a slabby finish. Getting through the roofs will take some muscle to be sure, but keep some finesse on hand for the top. A series of distinct bouldery cruxes broken up by excellent rests. There are some good options for different beta in a few places too depending on your strengths and preferred style.

Highly recommend back cleaning the chain permadraw once you have clipped the one above it to save rope drag (and minimize chewing up your rope as the rock is super abrasive at the lip of the last roof).

Usually stays dry pretty much year-round.

Location

Far right side of the Cave. Starts on the vertical face about 10 left of the finger crack that starts "Ninja Skills"

Protection

9 bolts (2 w/ permas) and anchors (with leaver biners).

You can momentarily clip the bolt at your waist on the giant ledge before reaching out to clip the chain draw, but definitely back clean it right away.